11th trip - Tunisia sailing area - 2nd leg - Monastir 27.10. - 02.11.2022

We set off on our first sailing trip along the Tunisian coast. Our destination is the marina in Monastir. Anchoring along the Tunisian coast is permitted, and this would be possible in many places, as the waters off Tunisia are generally very shallow and the sand provides good anchorage. However, this is usually only realistic in good weather, as there is little natural shelter or coves.

About halfway there is Sharqi Island, which we pass on the outside. In principle, it would also be possible to pass through between the mainland and the harbor, but due to the shallow water in some places, the harbor master advises us against it.

There are also anchorage options on the island.

A night trip along the Tunisian coast has some uncertainties.

At night, the coast of Tunisia is bustling with small fishing boats, which are often poorly lit, and there are many fishing nets out there, usually only marked by plastic bottles.

Another problem is the refugee boats that are expected to be on the move when the sea is calm and whose route to Lampedusa we cross.

We'll be traveling faster than the small wooden refugee boats with their two-stroke engines, and they'll also avoid us, as they want to sail undetected through the night to Europe. But such an encounter is bound to be emotionally stressful. Wanting to help, but not being able to help, and above all, not being allowed to help. Anyone who takes refugees on board is considered a human smuggler and will be severely punished. Neither the European nor the African authorities will be amused.

We therefore decide, despite all the restrictions, to make an overnight trip.

At the port, we have to check in with the harbormaster and the local National Guard for our next destination, Monastir. This is hassle-free and free of charge.

The National Guard at Sea radioed us as soon as we set off. We were the only official sailing yacht in the area – the National Guard checked the crew and the destination and wished us a safe journey.

The crossing

Directions 1 — The exit from the harbor leads through very shallow waters, so the port and starboard markings must be strictly followed.

Directions 4 — The day is coming to an end – it will soon be dark.

Directions 2 — The lights in the distance mark oil rigs.

Directions 3 — Pitch-black night – apart from our radar and the illuminated instruments, nothing can be seen on the vast sea.

Lampedusa is broadcasting in Italian all night on channel 16. There seems to be a lot going on on this windless night.

Working night watch with two people is exhausting – one person has to be awake and on watch at all times. An egg timer helps keep track of time – every 20 minutes, they should keep a lookout and check the radar for any unfamiliar boats or other obstructions.

We ourselves have no contact with foreign boats and get through the moonless night unmolested.

Marina 2 — Around midday the next day, Monastir comes into view.

Shortly before the harbor we are accompanied by dolphins.

Marina Monastir

Marina 1 — From the entrance to the marina, the old fortress – called Ribat – is clearly visible.

Marina 4 — A sunken ship blocks part of the entrance to the Monatir Marina.

Marina 3 — We find space at the guest jetty for a few days.

Marina 6 — The winter community is multicultural and meets every Sunday for a barbecue. The conversation takes place in German, English, and French. Winter campers come from South Africa, Switzerland, Germany, Canada, the USA, Spain, England, and Italy.

Monastir

City 2 — Leaving the Marina Monastir you can reach the city of Monastir on foot.

City 3 — You enter the old town through a city gate via a spacious palm-lined forecourt.

City 4 — There is a lot of activity in the city districts.

City 5 — The traffic is chaotic – cars, mopeds, and pedestrians are running and driving in a jumbled manner – not for the faint of heart. We often saw driving school cars – obviously, they're getting their driver's license – but afterward, hardly anyone seems to follow any of the rules. The cars are usually dented, missing bumpers don't bother anyone, and the mopeds are driven as long as the engine is running, lights are on, and the fairing is on... It's irrelevant...

Monastir Beach

Strand 1 — View of the beach in front of the marina – the shallow water on a sandy bottom creates a wonderful play of colors.

Strand 2 — At the end of October the water is still 25 degrees – this attracts bathers.

Ribat Monastir

Ribat 3 — 11th trip - Tunisia sailing area - 2nd leg - Monastir 27.10. - 02.11.2022 - 156 nautical miles 27

The Ribat in Monastir was founded in 796 as a defensive structure and is the oldest of its kind in Tunisia.

Ribat 4 — 11th trip - Tunisia sailing area - 2nd leg - Monastir 27.10. - 02.11.2022 - 156 nautical miles 28

Over the years the building was expanded and extended.

Ribat 2 — 11th trip - Tunisia sailing area - 2nd leg - Monastir 27.10. - 02.11.2022 - 156 nautical miles 29

The ribat served as a military facility, but also as a place for meditation and prayer. Two mosques have been integrated into it.

Ribat 5 — 11th trip - Tunisia sailing area - 2nd leg - Monastir 27.10. - 02.11.2022 - 156 nautical miles 30

Today there is a small museum inside.

graveyard — 11th trip - Tunisia sailing area - 2nd leg - Monastir 27.10. - 02.11.2022 - 156 nautical miles 31

Behind the ribat is the Muslim cemetery. This borders the:

Habib Bourguiba Mausoleum

Mausoleum 1 — 11th trip - Tunisia sailing area - 2nd leg - Monastir 27.10. - 02.11.2022 - 156 nautical miles 32

Former Tunisian President Habib Bourguiba was born on August 03.08.1903, XNUMX in Monastir.

Mausoleum 2 — Forecourt in front of the large mausoleum – on the right the Muslim cemetery

He is considered the father of Tunisian independence. Construction of the mausoleum for him and his family began during his lifetime. Habib Bourguiba died on April 06.04.2000, XNUMX.

Mausoleum 3 — 11th trip - Tunisia sailing area - 2nd leg - Monastir 27.10. - 02.11.2022 - 156 nautical miles 33

In addition to his grave, the mausoleum also contains the remains of his first French wife Mathilde, his parents, his siblings and other family members.

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