Guanaja - diverse experiences and impressions of the island in the Bay Islands

Chilling in El Bight Bay…

23.04. – 28.04.2025

Culinary highlights in Bonacca?

On Wednesday, we set off for Bonacca around noon. We wanted to try the local food and then buy fresh groceries. There are several small snack bars where locals offer their culinary skills. Everything is very simple, but clean. The cook rattles off her menu, but since we don't know what's behind it, we just order something: one with chicken, one with cheese. We get small wheat flatbreads—with cheese and one with chicken, as ordered—covered with a bean paste. I can safely say that I don't like bean paste. Unsatisfied, I leave the shop, and we think about where I can try again.

A local approaches us and shows us the most popular place in town. We've seen several residents come in with takeaway food from there. They even have a menu posted. I opt for a "chicken stew" and get chicken wings in sauce with rice and cold pasta salad... and fresh little wheat flatbreads... I'll take Honduran dishes off the menu for now...

The supply ship is here – now it’s time to shop

Since all the shops are closed from 12 to 14 p.m., we hang out at the local bar and drink a cold beer – otherwise there are only sweet soft drinks or still water – so beer seems to be the most honest choice.

Cat in Bonacca sleeps on egg carton — Cats apparently like egg cartons

Our first stop is the local ferreteria, as the hardware stores are called here on Bonacca. The store is surprisingly well-stocked. In addition to building materials, there are also household goods and medicines. We find several things that seem useful and reasonably priced and leave the store with a colorful assortment: fishing hooks, line, skimmers, spare parts for air conditioning units, etc.

Afterwards we storm the local supermarket and supplement our groceries with a pallet of eggs, various drinks and long-life milk.

We stock up on fresh fruit and vegetables at the vegetable market next door. The selection is really good and of decent quality. We also take a Spanish lesson – although we don't remember all the names of the fruits and vegetables.

Fruit and vegetables arrive once a week by supply boat — Large fruit and vegetable seller on Bonacca, goods fresh from the supply boat.

Visit on board

That evening, Nick and Anja from the Amani come aboard for a return visit. They also want to go to Guatemala's Rio Dulce—but they don't plan to arrive there until June. So our paths will soon diverge again.

We explore “El Bight”

Since we've been planning to be there for a few days, we'll set off on Thursday in the dinghy to check out the location. Hondurans call this German Bay because several Germans have settled here. There are three restaurants under German management...

However, Hans's pizzeria is no longer in operation – Hans is long-term ill. Hansi's restaurant is apparently open – but we can't spot any customers… So we drive around the bay and look at the back of El Bight Bay – here are several villas with sea views – some of which are for sale… The third restaurant – "Me Casa Too" – has its own jetty and is located a little way up the mountain. We've seen lights on here in the evenings, and even Google knows the place, and the reviews are good... Whether we'll eat here sometime and give Honduran food another chance... we're still undecided.

Restaurant Me Casa Too on Guajana. The climb is rewarded with a great view over the bay and good food. — Me Casa Too – private dock and top views over the bay

Honduras mainland – is it safe?

Since the season is slowly coming to an end, we're starting to plan our remaining time on Thursday. We had considered spending another week on the mainland to see more of Honduras. However, our research reveals that the coastal town of La Ceiba—where the ferries from the Bay Islands dock—is considered an unsafe destination. The Honduran mainland is generally considered very poor, with high levels of violent crime. We therefore decide to limit our visit to Honduras to the three Bay Islands.

We are planning our return trip to Germany

When we search for a reasonable return flight, we finally find one – there are no longer any direct flights to Düsseldorf from here. So we'll fly via Madrid, stop there for a few days... while we're there... and then take a direct flight to Düsseldorf from there. We'll arrive in Germany in the evening of June 07th...

On Saturday, we finally manage to get a phone call from Susi and Gordon, who want to tell us in detail about their vacation in Dubai. We now have an eight-hour time difference with Germany… so it's not that easy to find a time slot that works for both of us…

Temperatures here range between 29 and 35 degrees Celsius – so we enjoy lying down in our bunks and cooling ourselves down with the air conditioning… and because it's so comfortable, you can even waste a whole day doing it…

Michael Rock and the second largest barrier reef in the world

The channel leads from Bonacca to the other side of Guajana. Michael Rock was highly recommended by locals for snorkeling and swimming. — Through the Bonacca Channel we reach the other side of the island, to Michael Rock – this is where the snorkeling paradise of Guanaja is said to be.

On Sunday, we set off by dinghy to the other side of the island. Beyond Bonacca, a channel leads through the mangroves. There's supposed to be good snorkeling opportunities there. Honduras is connected to Belize by the second-largest barrier reef in the world, and from Michael Rock, you can supposedly get a good idea of the area by snorkeling. We have to drive quite a distance to get to the other side, where we're met by mostly deserted sandy beaches and dive sites – nicely landscaped but also deserted...

Empty stalls by Michael Rock on Guanaja — All the beach huts are closed – so we just chill

But the landscape is breathtakingly beautiful, and on our two snorkeling trips from different beaches, we get a glimpse into the outskirts of the reef. We've never seen so many different intact corals and such a diverse underwater fauna before. We snorkel for a good two hours. Observing the underwater world, it's easy to lose track of time.

Bernd back from snorkeling — A successful snorkeling trip – we return with many new impressions of the underwater world.

On the second snorkeling trip, we have to swim back to the dinghy against a slight current – by then we're pretty tired and exhausted. We then have to swim five nautical miles back to the boat in "socks." Despite applying sunscreen, I manage to get a slight sunburn… I wasn't expecting that after so long in the sun…

Heavy rain over the sea, you can clearly see the rain — Heavy rain over the sea… we are not affected today.

Successful dinner at “Me Casa Too”

After this busy day, we conclude with dinner at "Me Casa Too." We dock at the dock and then have to climb 192 steps to the top. Our effort is rewarded with a magnificent view of the bay. We're the only guests – there's chilled country music and delicious food. There are also lively geckos on the walls (good for pest control and therefore very popular house guests), and hummingbirds buzzing next to our table to their sugar water feeder. A perfect end to a beautiful day.

Hummingbirds at the feeder in the restaurant “Me Casa Too” – view of El Bight.

The next day we plan to sail on to the next island. Beforehand, Bernd climbs the mast to repair the lazy bag and the antenna.

Bernd in the mast — Joline’s mast is 22 meters high… I pull Bernd up with the electric winch.

Before he can finish the work, it starts to rain… well, pouring… and then it really starts to rain, with absolutely no wind… not the weather for sailing, so we decide to stay another day in Guanaja…