Sailing around the Dominican Republic – a report
08.12.2024 - 13.01.2025
On the road with the Dispachio…
Last season we skipped the Dominican Republic and went directly from Puerto Rico to the ABC Islands (Aruba Bonair Curacao). At the time, we were put off by the fact that you have to get a dispatch from the Armada every time you want to sail further; more on that below.
On our way north from Aruba, we decided to pay a visit to the Dominican Republic – it lies between the ABC Islands and the Bahamas.
In total we spent 36 days in the Dominican Republic and sailed 391 nm.
Cost overview sailing in the Dominican Republic (42 foot catamaran)
Attention: You will need cash in Santiago Domingo, preferably US$ (these are only available from banks in the Dominican Republic and are difficult to obtain).
- Clearance in Santo Domingo, boat and 4 people (the skipper is free 🙂 ) 125 US$
- Marina Santo Domingo US$42 per night
- Marina Zar Par (Boca Chica), US$50 per night
- Marina Punta Plata (Cap Cana) US$75 per night
- Marina Puerto Bahia (Samana), US$95 per night
- Ocean World Marina (Puerto Plata), Cruiser special rate flat rate 325 US$ plus tax for up to 14 days
- Clearance fee 50 US$, stay longer than 30 days costs 3500 DOP per person
Our stops around the Dominican part of the island of Hispaniola:
Santo Domingo
We begin our exploration of the Dominican Republic in the capital, Santo Domingo. In the heart of the capital lies a small marina on the banks of the Ozama River. Due to its location, it is very well protected, but the water is only about 1,5 meters deep or less. Due to the shallow, muddy bottom, we were only able to make it to the pier with the catamaran. Monohulls with a deeper draft may need to be towed in.
Communication with the marina – as in the rest of the country – is best handled via WhatsApp. Radio calls are generally not monitored. The Armada and Port Control don't feel responsible for us as sailors either. But Victor – the Harbour Master – assures us that everything is prepared for our arrival. And indeed, when we arrive at the pier, the marina barrier is opened. We are helped to dock, and the officials are all standing there waiting for us. Clearing customs is professional and friendly, but it does take a considerable amount of time. At the end, the skipper has to go to immigration. Passports are only stamped after the fees have been paid. The pick-up and drop-off service is free of charge.
With Uber you can easily and cheaply reach and explore the sights.
We explored the following sights here:
Dominican Republic – Basilica of Santo Domingo
Santo Domingo – the oldest colonial city in the New World
Santo Domingo – the National Park “Los tres ojos”
Santo Domingo – CAOBA cigar manufacturer
With the Teleferico we float over Santo Domingo
Boca Chica
Santo Domingo – Boca Chica 21 Nm
Our next stop is very convenient to Las Americas International Airport, from where our crew will board their return flight to Germany. Therefore, this is our second destination. The marina is well protected behind a reef. The problem here is the powerboats equipped with huge sound systems. Loud music is played in the marina day and night. The boats and their guests sail out just a few meters, drop anchor, and the party begins. At the dock, the boats are cleaned and prepared for the next party, naturally with appropriate background music. So, we're not sad when our time in Boca Chica comes to an end.
You can stock up on supplies at the supermarket within walking distance. Hardware, lumber, and even more specialized items like coal for engines are also available here.
The best way to reach the Armada for the Despatchio is by dinghy or alternatively by the marina's delivery service.
Catalina Island
Boca Chica – Isla Catalina 34 Nm
Isla Catalina is a stark contrast to Boca Chica. The island has crystal-clear waters and vast, palm-fringed sandy beaches. From the water, the colorful huts and wooden walkways are striking. The cruise ships that dock here sell it as an "Island of Dreams," and you really can't get more of a sophisticated Caribbean dream.
Contrary to what the cruising guides describe, there's now an Armada outpost on the island. So, in the morning, we receive a visit from a friendly commander who asks me, as captain, to come ashore to issue a new dispatch card. What must be done, must be done... So I'm taken ashore, wait until the paperwork is completed, and then am taken back to the boat.
Saona Island
Isla Catalina – Isla Sanoa 20 Nm
We continue to Isla Saona. Pure Caribbean flair. We are greeted by a postcard-perfect panorama. Turtles and rays frolic in the shallow, crystal-clear waters. After we anchor, I go ashore and report to the Armada. They copy the documents, but they don't want to issue a new dispatch card. We want to stay for three nights and are simply told to continue on our way.
Mona Passage
Directly after Isla Saona, the Mona Passage must be conquered. It is considered one of the most difficult stretches in the Caribbean. Depending on the weather, the strait between the Dominican Republic and Puerto Rico can experience strong currents, high waves, and poor visibility.
We waited for a calm weather window—the wind was supposed to reach a maximum of 18 knots—and set off at first light. The first stretch was quite pleasant, but immediately before we reached the passage, an unpleasantly short and high sea arose, even in otherwise calm weather, shaking our catamaran quite a bit.
Marina Cap Cana
Isla Sanoa – Marina Cap Cana 46 Nm
We chose the Cap Cana Marina because of its convenient location near Punta Cana Airport. Protected anchorages are generally scarce on the northeast coast. The marina is large and has plenty of space. We found it a bit impersonal, but it does have a nice beach.
We take an Uber to the supermarket and stock up on supplies for the next leg of our journey. The store is huge and has everything at reasonable prices.
Samana Bay
We actually wanted to make a stopover on the way to Samana Bay, but despite the calm weather, we couldn't find a suitable anchorage in the Mona Passage. The Atlantic waves crash high against the open coast, and the reefs cause the waves to break. So we sail through to Miches at the entrance to Samana Bay.
loaves
Cap Cana Marina – Samana Bay (Miches) 64 Nm
Off the town of Miches, we find an anchorage in a vast sandy bay, a few meters deep. We anchor a good 500 meters from the shore, so arriving at night is no problem. The passage leads past two reefs. The passage is wide, and the reefs are clearly marked on the nautical chart. The reefs protect the bay from the Atlantic waves, allowing us to lie quietly and comfortably.
There are theoretically two piers for landing in the dinghy, but both are very high and don't look good. So we decide to pull the dinghy onto the beach at the western end of town.
The local supermarket is within walking distance, and it's surprisingly well-stocked. There are also small fruit and vegetable vendors along the streets.
A dinghy ride into the river is not recommended, no matter how tempting it may seem. We had calm weather, but we still grounded in the estuary and damaged our propeller.
Bacardi – Iceland
Miches – Barcadi Island 21 Nm
Throughout the day, one boat after another arrives, bringing tourists from the mainland. When the cruise ships are docked off Samana, Barcardi Island is also a popular daytime destination. By 16 p.m., the hustle and bustle is over—the tourists return to land—and you have the island to yourself again.
The water is clear, and you can see fish and, above all, numerous large starfish. Anchoring is possible on sand at depths between 2 and 8 meters. The island offers good protection from swell.
Marina Puerto Bahia Samana
Barcadi Island – Marina Puerto Bahia Samana 5 Nm
Next to the city of Samana lies the Puerto Bahia Marina. Here, you can stop, enjoy the marina's amenities, and contact the dispatch center for Los Haities National Park. Customs and the Armada are also located at the marina, making the formalities quick and easy.
In addition to two restaurants, a bar, and a mini-market, there's a beautiful infinity pool. We enjoy the days and have a good time.
Los Haitises National Park
Marina Puerto Bahia – Samana – Los Haitises National Park – Marina Puerto Bahia 47 Nm
After a few days in the marina, we set off for Los Haitises National Park. The Armada in the marina has given us a dispatchio for four days—after which we must report back. The trip into the bay is easy, but the water is becoming increasingly brown. The rains of the last few days have caused the rivers to carry a lot of sediment into the bay. We reach our anchorage in the wide bay. We explore the rest of the national park by dinghy.
We took a close look at the national park, and the report can be found here: Los Haitises National Park – Dominican Republic
Northeast Coast – El Valle
Marina Puerto Bahia – El Valle 34 Nm
Our route continues towards Luperon. From Samana Bay, the route leads along the unprotected north/east coast. There are only a few anchorages here, and stopping is only possible in suitable weather conditions. In El Valle, we find a secluded cove that is open to the sea, but the weather is calm.
Las Terrenas – Playa Bonita
El Valle – Playa Bomita 18 Nm
Our second stop is at Playa Bonita. There's an offshore reef here, but the waves still roll into the bay at about a meter high. We sail as close to shore as Joline's draft allows, thus being largely protected from the waves.
Rio San Juan
Playa Bonita – Rio San Juan 42 Nm
This place is reserved for fishermen. There's a fishing harbor, the entrance of which is well protected behind a reef. So well protected that entering requires insider knowledge. However, with the waypoints of other boats and the help of Google Earth, we steer Joline safely through the narrow passage. There's plenty of space behind the reef, and we're well protected for the night.
Ocean World Marina at Puerta Plata
Rio San Juan – Ocean World Marina 39 Nm
We reach the last stop of our trip in the Dominican Republic, the Ocean World Marina. There's plenty of space and you can moor safely protected from the crashing waves of the Atlantic. The waves crash against the breakwaters again and again.
The Ocean World Marina in Puerta Plata is an excellent starting point for continuing on to Cuba or, as in our case, via the Turks & Caicos to the Bahamas. In Puerta Plata, there's a huge Jumbo supermarket that caters to every need. The selection and quality of fruit and vegetables is excellent, and the prices are reasonable. This way, we stock up on groceries for the coming weeks in the Bahamas. We manage to fit a total of seven large shopping carts onto the boat in two shopping trips.
The trip from the marina to the supermarket is easily accomplished by taxi or Uber – but beware, as tourists in Puerta Plata are often charged outrageous prices. We managed the trip by taxi for $6, and an Uber was a little less. The highest price we were asked for, however, was $40!
Clearing out takes place directly in the marina. Immigration, Armada, and Customs are located in the same building.
We originally planned to go to Luperon—a well-known hurricane hole with a sailing community. However, we abandoned this plan because the shopping options there are very limited.
In total we spent 36 days in the Dominican Republic.
The Ocean World Adventure Park in Puerta Plata – Dominican Republic
Dispatchio and important rules when sailing in the Dominican Republic
Unlike in many other countries, sailing requires a DispatchioThis is permission from the Armada – that’s what the Navy is called in the Dominican Republic – to sail to a certain location. You have to get the Dispatchio issued on site. It’s free of charge. You can usually state the nearest major port and then stop along the way. In Boca Chica, we got a Dispatchio issued for Marina Cap Cana and one there for Marina Bahia Samana. The next Dispatchio went straight to Ocean World Marina. If you meet the Armada en route, the reactions are different. Sometimes the limited partners insist on issuing a new Dispatchio – other times they don’t. Overall, though, the process is completely relaxed and stress-free.
The captain has to go ashore – the dispatchio is displayed and pictures of the boat are taken.
In addition to the dispatchio, the tariff Fill out a document with boat details and relevant pictures of the boat. We weren't asked about food, alcohol, etc. Only drugs and firearms were of interest – neither of which we have on board.
Entry and exit were also relaxed. The processes are carried out by the Immigration processed and are straight forward.
